How to Visit the Galápagos Without a Cruise
If you’re wondering whether it’s possible to experience the Galápagos Islands without a cruise, the answer is yes – but we made some big mistakes you can learn from. We spent four incredible nights on Santa Cruz Island, using Puerto Ayora as our base, and never stepped on a cruise ship or joined a guided tour.
We hiked to wild beaches, swam in volcanic crevasses, snorkeled with fish, and ate some of the best seafood we’ve ever had. While the Galápagos is known for high-end expedition cruises, a DIY land-based trip is entirely doable and can save you thousands of dollars.
Here’s how we did it, what we’d do differently next time, and how to plan your own land-based Galápagos adventure.
Where We Stayed in Puerto Ayora
We chose a waterfront property just across the bay from Puerto Ayora called Angermeyer Waterfront Inn. It had a beautiful, relaxed vibe and felt remote but was only a five-minute water taxi ride from the main dock.
At first we were a little hesitant to book because we needed to get a water taxi into town, but it worked out great. Taxis run all day and into the night, and they’re easy to catch. Just head to the dock and wave one down. The ride costs one dollar per person.
Our stay was on the higher end at around $300-$450 per night, but you can find budget hostels and boutique hotels right in town for less. If you’re planning something more comfortable, there are a few eco-lodges and sea-view villas nearby with great reviews.
What to Do on Santa Cruz Island Without a Tour
You don’t need a guide to enjoy some of the best things to do in the Galápagos. We spent four days exploring Santa Cruz Island on our own and never ran out of things to do. Here are the highlights.
Santa Cruz Fish Market
This is one of the most entertaining stops in town. We saw sea lions lounging on the docks like dogs and pelicans sneaking fish scraps while fishermen cleaned their catch. It’s easy to walk here from anywhere in Puerto Ayora and a fun place to stop in the morning or before lunch.
Los Kioskos
Just off the main street is a row of open-air food stalls where you pick your seafood and have it grilled to order. We had scorpion fish, grilled tuna, and garlic shrimp. It gets busy around 7 p.m., so go a little early if you want a seat without waiting.
Laguna de las Ninfas
This quiet lagoon is surrounded by mangroves and walking paths. It’s a peaceful stop about 15 minutes on foot from the harbor. We spotted a few turtles and small fish in the water. It’s free to enter and makes a good midday or pre-dinner stop.
Tortuga Bay
Tortuga Bay was one of our favorite beaches on the island. You reach it by walking a paved trail for about 40 minutes from town. The path is wide and easy, but go early to avoid the heat. It was a bit more intense than we expected. The first beach has strong surf and lots of marine iguanas.
Keep walking and you’ll reach Playa Mansa, a calm bay that’s great for swimming.
We brought our snorkel gear, but the visibility was low that day. Still, the beach is beautiful and the walk itself is worth it if you’re up for a hike.
Tip: Bring water, snacks, a hat, and sunscreen. There’s no shade once you reach the beach, and no food or water for sale.
Las Grietas
This is a volcanic crevasse filled with crystal-clear water where you can swim and snorkel between towering cliffs. It was the highlight of our trip.
To get there from town, take a dollar water taxi to the Finch Bay or Angermeyer dock. Since we were staying at Angermeyer, we could walk straight from our accommodations. Follow the signs for a 20-minute walk through lava fields and past salt flats. The trail is beautifully scenic but rocky, so wear decent shoes.
We went in the afternoon the first day, and it was crowded. Then came back the next morning and had it mostly to ourselves. The water is cold but refreshing. Bring goggles or a mask if you can. We saw schools of fish and one or two large ones gliding below us.
Charles Darwin Research Station
An easy walk from the harbor, the research station offers a look at conservation work happening in the Galápagos. You’ll see giant tortoises, iguanas, and learn more about the island’s ecosystems. It’s a relaxed visit that takes about an hour.
Optional: El Chato Tortoise Reserve
We didn’t make it to El Chato, but it’s one of the best places to see giant tortoises in their natural habitat. It’s about a 30-minute taxi ride inland, and most drivers will wait while you walk the trails and visit the lava tunnels nearby.
Some travelers stop here on the way to or from Baltra Airport, which can be a smart way to fit it in without making a separate trip.
Optional Day Trips from Santa Cruz
If we had more time, we would’ve taken the ferry to San Cristóbal Island and spent two nights there. It’s a two to two-and-a-half-hour ride each way. Ferries run twice a day and can be booked in town or online. San Cristóbal has great snorkeling and a smaller-town feel. It’s high on our list for next time. You can also take a flight back to the mainland from here.
Popular day trips from Santa Cruz include:
- Bartolomé Island for penguins and volcanic landscapes
- North Seymour to see blue-footed boobies (we only saw one on Santa Cruz!)
These trips are more expensive, and must be booked through licensed tour operators. You’ll find plenty of options in town. Be sure to ask about group size, equipment, and what’s included.
Practical Travel Tips for the Galápagos
Getting There
Fly into Baltra Airport (GPS) from Quito or Guayaquil. From the airport, take the free shuttle to the Itabaca Channel, a short ferry across, then a taxi or bus into Puerto Ayora. The whole trip is sort of chaotic and takes about 90 minutes. Make sure you research it all in advance and know what to expect.
Entry Fees
This is really important. There are two mandatory fees for entering the Galápagos:
- $20 Transit Control Card, paid at the airport before your flight from mainland Ecuador
- $200 Galápagos National Park fee, paid in cash when you arrive in Baltra.
Don’t make our big mistake. Have USD cash ready. ATMs are limited and cards aren’t widely accepted. I wound up having to get out of line, go into the airport, and use an ATM. It didn’t work at first and I was panicking! It worked on the second try but it was super stressful.
What to Pack
- Reef-safe sunscreen (required in many areas)
- Water shoes or good sandals for rocky trails
- Reusable water bottle
- Lightweight, long-sleeved clothes for sun protection
- Snorkel gear if you have it (rentals are available but can be hit or miss)
- Dry bag for boat trips or beach days
- A good hat. We didn’t realize how intense the sun would be and were really glad we had plenty of sun protection.
- Insect repellent. This is another thing we weren’t prepared for. The onslaught of mosquitoes at sunset was intense. We rarely ever use deer products, even in the jungles of Central America, but we were glad the hotel had them available or we wouldn’t have been able to enjoy the sunsets.
Don’t make our biggest mistake: When we checked the weather, it said 20c/68 and cloudy. When we got there, it was 30c/88f and intensely sunny. We later realized that the island has multiple climates and the weather must be gauged in the hills. The beach is very different. So we should have brought more summer clothes and sun protection.
DIY Galapagos Verdict
That’s everything we did on our land-based trip to the Galápagos. We made mistakes that a tour operator would generally take care of for you. But we learned, and hopefully you can avoid our errors.
We’d absolutely go back, and next time we’d build in more time to visit San Cristóbal and maybe add a guided snorkeling day trip. But even with just four days on Santa Cruz, we saw so much.
Don’t forget to spend a few days in Quito before or after your excursion. Check out our Quito tips here.