Eating in Edinburgh turned out to be one of the highlights of our trip. The city is full of lively pubs, quirky cafes, and casual spots. While we also sampled some fine-dining options on this trip, this post is all about trying traditional Scottish dishes and comfort food while exploring the Old Town on foot. We’ll also tell you where to go for the best live music and drinks.
We set out on an official food tour with a fantastic guide through WithLocals. This was a great option to get the full history of the food and the places we visited. We highly recommend going this route, but you can also choose to set out on your own. Here’s a look at the places we tried, what we ate, and why we would recommend them for your next trip to Scotland’s capital.
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The Mitre Bar: Cullen Skink and 60/80 Shilling Beer
The Mitre Bar sits right on the Royal Mile, making it an easy stop if you are exploring the Old Town. We ordered the classic Cullen Skink, a creamy soup made with smoked haddock, potatoes, and onions. It was rich and filling, perfect for a cold evening or a rainy late summer day. We love to try local fish soup around the world and this one did not disappoint. In fact, this was the first of many times we had it on our trip to Scotland
To go with it, we tried 60 Shilling and 80 Shilling beers, two traditional Scottish styles. The names come from the old system of taxing beer in Scotland, when brews were priced according to strength. A lighter ale would be taxed at 60 shillings a barrel, while a stronger, maltier one would cost 80 shillings or more. The 60 Shilling was lighter and easy to drink, while the 80 Shilling had more body and depth, which paired well with hearty pub food.
Pro Tip: The Mitre is usually busy, especially in the evenings. If you want a quieter meal, try stopping in earlier in the afternoon.
No. 1 High Street: Haggis and Cranachan
At No. 1 High Street, we checked off two classics: haggis and cranachan. The haggis was served with a creamy sauce that surprisingly did not overwhelm the dish. It was an excellent compliment and the flavors overall were creamy, peppery, savory, and much more approachable than we expected.
For dessert, we ordered cranachan, a traditional mix of raspberries, cream, oats, and honey. It was super creamy and a bit indulgent but made a great companion main dish.
Tip: If you are hesitant about haggis, order it here. The preparation was balanced and flavorful, and the setting offers a relaxed and traditional way to enjoy Scottish staples.
The Piemaker: Carb-Filled Comfort
The Piemaker is a small takeaway spot known for its wide range of pies. They have everything from savory fillings like chicken or steak to vegetarian options and sweet pies for dessert.
The mac and cheese pie ended up being our favorite. The creamy pasta inside flaky pastry sounds over the top carb-on-carb, but it worked. It’s also one of the most budget-friendly meals we had in Edinburgh.
Pro Tip: This is a great place to stop if you need something quick and filling between sightseeing stops. There are some limited seats available at the windows our you can take it to go. We loved supporting this small business and chatting with the team.
Castle Rock: Fried Mars Bar
The fried Mars bar is one of those things you feel like you have to try in Scotland. We had ours at Castle Rock, and it was better than expected. The chocolate and caramel melted into a soft center while the outside stayed crisp.
Neither of us would normally order fried sweets, but this was worth it for the experience.
Pro Tip: One is plenty to share. It’s rich, but fun to try once.
Landy’s: Fish and Chips
Landy’s ended up being one of our favorite finds. Their fish and chips were excellent, with light batter, flaky fish, and generous portions. Everything tasted fresh and was served hot, which was exactly what we needed after a long day outdoors exploring the city.
Pro Tip: Definitely make this a priority. They served the best fish and chips we had all trip!
Burgers & Beers: Great Casual Spot on High Street
For a casual dinner, Burgers & Beers Grillhouse on High Street was definitely a winner. We stumbled on it late one rainy night when most restaurants were already closed, and it turned into a great surprise.
They offer a wide range of styles with different toppings and sauces, and everything came out well-cooked and flavorful. The service here was especially friendly, which made the experience even better. It felt casual but done with care, and they also served excellent cocktails
Pro Tip: Open late. Come hungry. The burgers are generously sized and easy to customize.
Live Music Spots: Whistle Binkies and Stramash
For a night out, we had a blast at both Whistle Binkies and Stramash. They are good choices if you want live music with your drinks.
Whistle Binkies is tucked underground and has a fantastic 90s dive bar vibe, while Stramash is larger (and a bit cleaner). Both serve plenty of local whisky and beer, and the music made the nights memorable.
Pro Tip: Arrive a little earlier if you want a seat. These venues can get crowded, especially on weekends. Also be careful: these spots are so much fun, it’s easy to accidentally stay until closing and miss out on some sightseeing in the morning!
Brewhemia: A Brunch Spot by the Station
On our last morning we had brunch at Brewhemia, which is located right by Waverley Station. The space is big, which made it convenient since we had all of our travel bags with us. We each ordered the avocado croissant with a poached egg, and it was fresh, filling, and one of the better brunch dishes we’ve had while traveling.
Pro Tip: This is a good choice if you need a sit-down meal before catching a train. There’s plenty of space, and service was fairly quick.
Edinburgh’s food scene gave us a mix of traditional dishes, comforting pub food, and original treats. Our favorites ranged from the hearty Cullen Skink at The Mitre Bar to the haggis at No 1 High Street and the classic fish and chips at Landy’s.
If you’re visiting Edinburgh, try a mix of pubs, quick stops, and a brunch or two before you leave. Quite honestly, we enjoyed all of this more than the pricier upscale meal we had on arrival.
Have you been to Edinburgh? What are your favorite spots to grab a meal or a pint?
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